Oregon Insider: A Guide to Portland

Compared with the sprawling metropolis of Seattle, Washington, 280 kilometers north, Portland lives like a big town. The snaking Willamette River splits the city into east and west.

Start to the west, where downtown and historic areas like the Pearl District and Chinatown are backed by the Cascade Mountains. The west side boasts Forest Park, with nearly 130 kilometers of hiking trails, fire lanes and roads in one of the country’s biggest urban forests; and the shadowy oasis of the Portland Japanese Garden, with views of the snowcapped volcano Mount Hood to the east. In downtown, Powell’s City of Books is a city block-sized independent bookstore that’s one of Portland’s most beloved icons.

The heart of local Portland life, however, lies east of the river. In the southeast, you can take classes on brewing methods at Stumptown’s Tasting Bar, the city’s favorite coffee roaster, or eat a doughnut topped with bacon or Fruit Loops breakfast cereal at Voodoo Doughnut. Bars in neighborhoods like Hawthorne or the Alberta Arts District regularly feature art, independent shops and live music.

From Portland, Interstate Highway 84 connects with the Columbia River and squeezes through the tight river gorge. You can take a car to get there, but shuttles and guided tours are also available (and highly recommended). Only about a half hour from town, you begin finding some of the dozens of day hikes, such as the less than 4-kilometer loops to the shower spray of Latourell Falls or the bankside picnic spots of Elowah Falls. Afterwards, drop into the riverside town of Hood River, popular for its windsurfing and pick-your-own berry farms along the Fruit Loop. For a full meal, try pFriem, with its Belgian-influenced brews, locally sourced foods and views of the Columbia and White Salmon rivers.

South of Portland, the fertile Willamette River Valley’s pastoral hills are wine central, with more than 500 wineries. By car, follow signs to Penner-Ash Wine Cellars, Árdiri and other wineries on side roads graced with landscapes striped by grape vines. Nearly all offer tastings, often with outdoor seats and views of the snowcapped Cascade Mountains.

From Portland, take Interstate Highway 5 south and exit on Highway 99W at Tigard to reach towns like McMinnville, about 64 kilometers from downtown.

The Oregon coastline is one of the state’s great treasures, and it’s only 1.5 hours from Portland by car. Most visitors head to beach towns like Seaside and Cannon Beach for seafood and to check into bungalows near the sand. To escape crowds, venture to beaches south of Cannon Beach.

One highlight worth the $5 vehicle admission is Ecola State Park, a cliff-backed beach with coves and tide pools that can be reached by hiking through a Sitka spruce forest. The small parking lots mean you need to arrive early on summer weekends.

It’s best having a car, but you can take the NorthWest Point bus to Cannon Beach or Seaside.

Portland averages about 89 centimeters of rainfall — and only 68 clear days — a year. Don’t fret. Even in winter, there are days without rain. The best time for dry weather is from June through September, when average high temperatures run from 23 to 27 degrees Celsius.

And if it does rain, do as the locals do: No one in Oregon lets a little rain keep them from going outdoors.